Marrakech-Trains, Planes and Hotel rooms

Getting there :

We booked tickets through Ryan air. A very cheap, no frills airline that gets you to point to point across Europe.  I would report on the service and efficiency on the airline except we went to the wrong airport with the minimum 45 minutes to spare before boarding- only to realize the the airport we were supposed  to be at, was an hour away. I won't say who was in charge of the "getting us there" part of the trip. Ahem.

Faced with the possibility of losing 3 days of our trip, or encounter the delays the rest of Europe and east coast were experiencing from the snow, we bit the bullet and bought tickets at the travel agency in the airport. We were on our way to Marrakech by way of Casablanca that same day.

Royal Air Maroc is not exactly an "efficient" or organized airline by any means. We observed it first while waiting in line so long we nearly missed our flight because everyone in front of us had at least 80 bags each and were traveling in large groups of 20. And I'm sweating over whether or our 2 bags exceed 15 kg.

The second time was while waiting in Casablanca for over 2 hours watching sheer pandemonium break out over canceled and delayed flights and the methods they were using to remedy the situation. We were almost positive that once again, we were not going to make it to Marrakech. At the very last second, which was 45 minutes after our plane was set to take off,  we were "granted" tickets - that we already had mind you- to board the flight. To be honest I couldn't recount the event, it was truly more complicated than it needed to be, but there were 10 airline people doing something that would ordinarily take 2. Moral of this story- Have lots and lots and lots of patience when traveling to Morocco. That sort of thing was a reoccurring theme.

We arrived at our riad, Dar les Cigognes by 3am. Our room was Sahara themed, and could have been circus themed for all we cared.  We were exhausted, happy to finally arrive and fell right  to sleep.

In the morning we got to see more of the Riad we sleepily arrived in late the night before. A Riad is a traditional Moroccan house or palace with a garden or courtyard, and in many cases they are converted into a hotel. It was beautiful and had a lovely fountain in the middle of the courtyard.

 The sun shining was the best treat of all, but I was anxious to get out and see the infamous souk; that enormous maze of covered markets and home to all kinds of Moroccan Treasures.

It should be said that leading up to our trip I became a little obsessed with what I had been reading about getting sick. From what people I spoke to said,  as well as what I read in books, it was unavoidable.

Dreading this, and public bathrooms I was determined not to let this happen. 

Our first morning, starving but worried about what this silent offender would be, I ordered whatever had honey in, on or with it. In this case it was a basket of breads. Perfect. 

Breakfast on the lovely rooftop at Dar les Cigognes.

I had learned previously that when in a new place, if you have allergies, you should eat the local honey and that would help your body adjust. I had no idea if this would apply to our intestinal tract but hoped it would.  Later, it was confirmed by a friend via email. So, I can say, "for us" the honey trick worked! We did not, at any point, experience travelers belly. Despite the many times I caught myself mid-brush cursing for using the tap water.  So my first travel tip is 

" Eat the honey, Honey!"

Dar Les Cigognes was a peaceful lovely riad with a nice staff and the rooms were comfortable and cozy.

The way we travel, we usually book the first few nights in a place and then decide where else we'd like to go once we get the lay of the land. ( I was secretly hoping the rooms at La Mamounia, "the" hotel in Marrakech  would suddenly drop in price so we could stay there! But alas, it was high season) 

This hotel booking method of ours was slightly difficult in Morocco because of the lack of WiFi in many of these Riads. Luckily on our second night at Dar Les, we found out about their sister Riad and booked a few nights there to change it up. 

Riad Kaiss was GORGEOUS. WE walked in to absolute jaw dropping tiling and beauty. Birds were chirping away in the tress within the courtyard, the staff was even friendlier and the rooms, the rooms were divine.

We were able to choose our room, which was hard because they were so nice. 

 Anyone who has seen my online albums knows that I LOVE hotels and taking pictures of them, from the ceiling to the bathroom. So bear with me.

Looking out of our doorway.
 

A view into our bathroom. LOL told you I like pics!

Changing hotels was a great move. We were even closer to the souk and got to see a different side of town. (Not that it's all that far from where we were before, but from here, there was a street that lead you right into the souk without having to walk through traffic or crowds!)
The Dar Les Cigognes and Riad Kaiss offer cooking courses, hammam, spa treatments and book day trips for you if you ask. It's a full service hotel in every way. My one complaint, if there has to be one is the WiFi. I don't even want to have a complaint but... Riad Kaiss had Wifi in the room/hotel 1 out of the 3 nights we were there. That was difficult since we still had Fes and Tangier to plan for and family to contact for the holidays. Other than that I give Kaiss a 10+++. It was that good.
I had hoped I would get a cooking class in, but decided I would do that in Fes, a decision I now regret since that didn't end up happening either.
They have a beautiful cookbook I looked at as a consolation to missing out on the classes called
"Tanjia Marrakchia  Culinary Adventures at Dar les Cigognes". It talks about the culture, history and your eating manners according to Allah and so many other wonderful things in addition to the recipes.

We decided to treat ourselves to a Christmas Eve hammam. Because water is and was scarce, there are public places out in town for men and woman to come, wash and socialize. It's a big cultural thing and all the guide books or Morocco blogs tell you its a MUST SEE. I am not one for public nudity ( I also wasn't clear on whether they were co ed or not- they're not) or socializing while washing so we opted for the private hammam treatment at the hotel.
First they have you shower and do a quick soapy wash inside the warm sauna room. Then you lay down, relax and let your pores open up for 15 to 20 minutes. Once you are steamed, you are slathered with black soap, top to bottom. Again you are instructed to lay down and let your skin soften while covered in black soap. It's all wonderful and peaceful and relaxing. Then comes the scrubbing.
Now, I had heard it was rough, but this was almost mind numbing pain at points. The sweet woman we had been doing botched charades with this whole time to order to communicate, was standing there with her head scarf, loose cotton pants rolled into high waters, a scrub mitt  now on her hand and was beginning to look like she really meant business. We start on the back, and I'm not kidding the skin is just coming off. In gobs. It's painful. There's no 2 ways about it. It's the price you pay for gorgeous skin. No needles, no lasers. Just a mitt. And after your skin goes kind of numb, it's relaxing too.
I rinsed, had an herbal mask applied and laid down again while my husband got the royal scrub down. I strained my ears to hear if he was making little yelps or sighs of pain but he did good. I closed my eyes.
We leave the hammam with our BABY soft skin that glows and in a daze, make our way back to the room. It's only 7 but we are wiped and feel like we had some kind of transcendental experience.

There is a beautiful 6 course Christmas Eve dinner with traditional music set to begin upstairs but we are so exhausted and decide to order food to the room instead. The menu was very heavy on the fois gras in almost every dish, it looked spectacularly delicious if you like fois gras but I'm just not a fois gras kind of girl. Either way, to walk further than the bathroom proved itself to be a chore. The coup de grâce came when we were delivered personal hot water bottles in pretty Moroccan cozies ( I mean, are you kidding? the Four Seasons doesn't even do that). There was no moving us.  We laid happily in bed listening to the live music upstairs and fell into a blissful hammam and food induced sleep.

Marrakech Christmas eve.

One big bright star on Christmas night.

Candlelit stairs leading to the Christmas dinner.

I also must mention that we woke up Christmas Morning to a giant stocking hung filled with oranges and candy outside our door. I'm telling you, Riad Kaiss is Heaven.

 We did a few non- souk related activities from here. Once to Essaouira, post coming soon, visited the Palais Badi,  Majorelle Garden and the YSL museum there.
Here are a few pictures of the Jardin Majorelle and Palais Badi, in that order.

The Yves Saint Laurent Memorial

The gardens were pretty and peaceful. But the absolute must see there is the YSL mini museum. 

Quick history of the gardens. Yves Saint Laurent and his partner bought the garden from Jacques Majorelle in 1980 in order to preserve and restore it. It had been designed by Majorelle and open to the public since 1947. There is also the Islamic Art Museum that I am kicking myself for missing. It's supposed to be really great. The YSL museum was amazing. When you first walk in, it's like a mirrored disco ball meets sparkly night sky. Dizzying and stunning. And the clothing. The clothing was. So. Beautiful. I literally got choked up seeing the work and some of the 60's and 70's pieces I adore.

No pictures allowed. Not even covert ones. 

Yves Saint's ashes were spread in the garden June 2008.

Palais Badi

Oh! seeing my boot reminds me. My sole was stepped on, torn into a flap. There are shoe makers outside of the souk that sit inside these small literal holes in the wall surrounded by shoes. I found a man near out hotel to fix my sole and it was the coolest process I had seen.  Fire,  thick glue from a tub on the floor. And cheap to boot. Ha. get it?Boot? 

I'm such a bad blogtress!  I have no idea what this place was about, except that it is very very old. I will have to wait until my history buff huz gets home so I can write a sentence or 2 about it.-

OK it was once known as the grandest palace in the whole muslim world but it may have been doomed from the beginning. Supposedly when it was first commissioned, several centuries ago, an onlooker said "This will make a great ruin one day" and that is exactly what it is now. - Mr. Huz Pickle

LASTLY: TRAINS

I had a very hard time leaving Marrakech and was apprehensive about our travels and what lay ahead. 

On our last day, we arrived in a rush to the train station moments before the train was set to leave.

 ( are you seeing a trend here?)

There had been a mix up, the hotel keys were still in a pocket and one of us had to rush back to deliver it, subsequently missing the train. We caught the next one, 2 hours later but made one big mistake.  

Two actually. 

First, buy a first class seat. It's like $10 to $30 dollars more but it ensures you have a seat. 

Second, if you have to buy  a second class ticket, get on the train as soon as they allow. The trains fill up real quick and you will be left without a seat in no time. For a 8 hours journey like ours was to Fes, it's not fun.

A third tip, don't get off the train thinking your loved one is behind you because you're annoyed they bought the wrong ticket and now have no place to sit so standing by the bathroom is your only option. 

 I will tell you why from first hand experience. 

The train WILL start to move, without a hoot or a whistle and you will turn around to see your loved one is still on board.  Then, all you'll hear is a very loud, direct order like you've never known to "GET ON THE TRAIN!"And you will, panicked and scared out of your mind, grab a pull bar in ballet flats and your piece of luggage, and do just as you have been told. 

But it's no good, really.  So just stay put and enjoy the view from the bathroom.

The Sanssouci Collection
http://www.sanssoucicollection.com/

Dar Les Cigognes                                                    
108, rue de Berima
Marrakech (medina)
Morocco
Tel. +212 524 38 27 40
Email: info@lescigognes.com

Riad Kaiss

65 derb Jdid          
Riad Zitoun Kedim
Marrakech (Medina)
Morocco
Tel. +212 524 44 01 41
Email: info@riadkaiss.com

Jardin Majorelle
Rue Yves Saint Laurent
Ave. Yacoub El Mansour