Marrakech- The Souk

As I sit here, looking through hundreds of photos and wondering where to start I am listening to my husband sing his own reworded version of the Jersey shore theme song ( yes, I have indeed poisoned his mind in my extreme nostalgia for the US, thank goodness we get to travel.).
I can't help but smile.  Between the pictures and little adventures we encountered in Marrakech and the re-imagined score of the MTV's always classy JS, life is pretty good.

Without further adieu, Marrakech. Or Marrakesh. Whichever you prefer.

Djemaa El Fna

The Souk, a big covered market famous in Marrakech for housing treasures and goods of all kinds, was the first thing I wanted to see. There's everything from food to housewares, clothes, leather, lamps, spices, fabrics and more. We could walk there from the hotel and it was a great way to see the city. In order to get to Djemaa El Fna, the big market square preceding the souk, we walked through the Jewish quarter and along many fabric, brass, tile and food stalls on our way. We saved going into these non bargaining stores for last, and ended up not getting to them. But there were some beautiful fabrics and upholstery I had my eye on. 

The Water seller.   Look at those clouds behind him! 

 

Velour sweatsuits made their way to Morocco in case you were ever wondering.

A crowd gathering around some stunt involving a frog, a knife aaaand that's all I needed to see.

I learned pretty quickly that if you wanted to take a picture here, you'd have to pay for it. So needless to say, this series is a little more covert ops. Except this guy.
I also learned, if you get to close to the snake charmers they will lunge toward you with snakes in their hands and offer to drape the snakes on you for money and pictures. That’s just not cool. Unless you like snakes. Then I guess, drape away!




Below is one of the snake drapers

eyeballing his next victim. 

We'd walk past the water seller, the man with teeth in a big glass jar and pliers on his table,  the snake charmers and nut sellers,  into the souk where we would get lost for hours.

Enter the souk.....

When you finally arrive inside this covered market, there are many different ways you can enter, each leading to entirely different stalls and sections. It's easy if not unavoidable to lose your way once inside.  I felt like I was in the movie "Labyrinth". You go down one walkway, turn left and then right, sounds easy enough to remember? Yet, somehow it becomes impossible to retrace your steps. A stall will close,  or a walkway seems to appear out of nowhere to confuse you. You're seeing treasure you are SURE you didn't pass before. Eventually, all roads lead out. It's good to have a meeting place in the main square of Djemaa, if you go with an equally prone to meandering shopping buddy and get lost. Most people can direct you to the square and sometimes will offer the directions to you just from seeing the confused look on your face.

There was no way to see everything and also take photos, so luckily when looking through our pictures I found a few to attempt to capture what was inside.  Our first day was spent drinking mint tea for 3 hours while getting a rug tutorial. We wanted a rug, but had no idea the process would be so involved. I'm glad we did it, I feel like we learned a lot. And got 2 pretty rugs out of the deal. (hopefully we didn't pay too much!!!)
 But after the epic rug sesh, things started closing.  I wasn't gonna mess around with picture taking. I had to get my shop ON!

The best part of the souk, outside of the treasures of course, is the bargaining. Or in my case, Countering and then Caving. I would look back at my husband and he would just roll his eyes at how easily I gave in.  It's a welcome process and often involves laughing and smiling. Even if you don't walk away with what you want, it shouldn't and in my experience, wasn't ever an aggressive exchange on either side. I came to take this for granted later when we would move on to Fes and Tangier. The sellers here are used to tourists, are friendly for the most part and are most likely getting twice of what they would from a local, even once the price has been lowered and agreed upon. So they've still got the upper hand in the hustle. When you meet people you are supposed to put your hand over your heart, and we felt that warmth very genuinely here. 

We always ended up in this courtyard and would stop at the same spice souk to browse. I can be a pain to shop with because I like to spend the first day looking and pricing everything first. Then I go home and think about it and whatever is a stand out must have, I come back the next day to purchase. It also gives me leverage to know what things cost instead of getting completely hustled. Or impulsively buying things I don't really want or have a place for. Yep, my husband is one patient man.

This seller at this souk reminded me of a really happy cartoon character with constant Cheshire's grin. Whether he liked us or did this for all the tourists, after spending some time laughing and bargaining when we would visit,  he showed us a great tucked away spot to eat one day and an herbal pharmacy to get remedies for all types of ailments another. Unfortunately, the ways to get there were always winding and tucked away, I don't think I would have any idea how to return.


Marrakech, it's trippy enough with all the color. Be high on life.

Bright, aromatic cooking spices.

I know, I know, enough with the spice souk already! It's just so pretty to me. 

  

Cafe des Epices is a great place to stop for mint tea and a sit down. So is it's sister cafe, Terrasse des epices.

Terrasse des epices( a tip from GOOP)

We bought some of these yummy looking cookies.
Our favorite are the Gazelle horns, an almond filled small pastry, in a shape to match it's name with orange flower essence. YUM.
 I'm not sure if they are authentic or made once a month or what because when we offered some to our driver he said, " Did you get at Djemaa El Fna?" and when we said yes he sort of picked around them and ate the last gazelle horn.

And then came the night.....

All the shops lining the square illuminated. 

 The tin lantern shops were mesmerizing. We decided to forgo lamps for rugs. Ryan air has a strict baggage policy and we were pushing it with 3 bags for our flight back.
Next time, one of you pretties will be mine!

Best OJ. Ever. 

Oh the OJ is so incredible. I drank it as often as I could get my hands on it. It's sweet and pulpy and perfect. We had some from this stand and I didn't care if I got sick it was that good. See below.

I don't know what you're supposed to avoid or be cautious of while out and about in Marrakech because I was too busy shopping to think of eating. When I wasn't shopping, I was paranoid about getting sick. Yes, I am a dream to travel with, what makes you think otherwise? :)

We didn't eat out of carts, or drink, except once, the OJ stall, OK and one other time when our spice friend took us to a local spot off the beaten path in the souk and I found a little tiny piece of raw meat floating in my coke. Yum. Also the large sheep heads perched near each food stall weren't doing a good job of being enticing either .  BUT.  I've heard if you're going to eat from a cart or stall, and not be a food wuss like me,  Djemaa is the place to do it.  

We were lucky that our riad had amazing food so I felt like I was enjoying Moroccan fare enough without risking a few days on the toilet. 

Speaking of the toilet!

Final Words:

Another thing I would like to add about our experience in the souks and elsewhere in Morocco is the public bathrooms.  The ones I encountered were perfectly clean and smell good. My husband is shaking his head that I'm mentioning this but I have a bladder of a mouse and a nose like a bloodhound so this was a major concern for me.  I had read in the lonely planet guide book( DON'T get that book by the way) to bring tissues and sanitizer and like, prepare to be squatting over a hole. Naturally, I was prepared for the worst and EVERY time, even the train bathroom, came out pleasantly surprised. They had potpourri, and no garbage or other gross items on the floor like I have seen a 1,000 times in the US.
Yes, I used bathrooms in restaurants or public places here and not in small villages in the Atlas Mountains, but I've been in a Target or Starbucks bathroom in NY or LA and it can get saaavage.
So, bring all the essential sanitizers and such but there is no need to feel terrified like I did.

The colors made me crazy.  Just unbelievable amounts of color. In everything,  Everywhere.
I can honestly say Marrakech and the souk held my favorite and most fond memories. It was happy and bright and all the things I had imagined it was. You could appreciate that things didn't change much, and walking around there sometimes felt like it could have been any time period. No laptops out, or people obsessively texting on cell phones. Men sitting in their booths in djellabas and babouches surrounded by their timeless treasures. Hearing the call to prayer no matter where you were. It was amazing and unlike anything I had ever seen or experienced.
I was really sad to leave but knew I would regret not seeing other parts of the country. Having seen them, I cannot wait to come back.

Back in the Sahara after a long day.